Modelling Industry Issues: The Hidden Cost of the Catwalk

Modelling industry issues surrounding diversity, abuse and exploitation have persisted for decades. Recently, the Sunday Times conducted an investigation into the potential exploitation of models by agencies and talent scouts who lure young individuals from economically challenged African nations with promises of a better future. 

This investigation revealed that modelling agencies are actively recruiting young people who have escaped war-torn African nations and are struggling with poverty. Although they participate in fashion castings in Europe, a significant number of individuals return within days or weeks, often burdened with considerable debts. These modelling industry issues are especially concerning when agencies recruit young people experiencing poverty, displacement and conflict.

The Sunday Times’ investigation focused on aspiring models from the Kakuma refugee camp in northwestern Turkana County, Kenya in particular. Established by the United Nations High Commissioner for Refugees (UNHCR) in 1992, the camp primarily serves displaced individuals from countries like Sudan and Ethiopia. The agency responsible for recruiting models issues government-approved work permits to those who pass the initial recruitment phase, allowing them to leave the refugee camp and proceed to Nairobi. There, they receive passports and visas and are equipped with accommodations and a weekly allowance ranging from €70 to €100. The recruitment process raises further modelling industry issues around informed consent, safeguarding and financial transparency.

The journey to success is far from guaranteed, and debt is one of the most serious modelling industry issues revealed by the investigation. Many models who fail to secure sufficient paid work, or are deemed unsuitable for the industry, return to Kenya with substantial debts owed to the agencies that recruited them with promises of prosperity. Moreover, some models are considered too malnourished or inexperienced for the demands of professional modelling.

The investigation uncovered several stories of disappointment and debt, like the one of the 23-year-old model Alcol Malaul Jau from South Sudan, who shared her own experiences of modelling. The young woman made her debut on the catwalk last February but after six months, however, she found herself back in her shared hut with her family, holding a balance sheet that revealed a debt of approximately €3,000. The agency who recruited Jau, Select Model Management, claimed that the feedback from clients on her had been less favourable. The agency’s CEO, Matteo Puglisi, expressed his regrets, stating that although the agency had lost a lot of money on her, they were also refraining from pursuing legal action of what it was due to them. A statement that has everything but kindness and understanding, in our opinion. Just like Jau, there are many other disappointing modelling stories out there like the one of Nyabalang Gatwech Pur Yien, who even attempted her own life after being sent back to her refugee camp with almost €3,000 of debt and no paid work. Their experiences demonstrate how damaging these modelling industry issues can become when vulnerable young people are left without adequate support.

However, there are also success stories. Some individuals, such as Rejoice Chuol and Mari Malek, are making their mark in the fashion industry. Chuol recently appeared in a magazine ad for H&M and graced the runway for Dolce & Gabbana at Milan Fashion Week. Malek is establishing Runways to Freedom, a group that supports refugees in the industry. She emphasised the importance of African, dark-skinned, and black models, particularly those from South Sudan, renowned for their striking beauty and powerful presence.

Select Model Management,  which has the likes of David Gandy and Devon Aoki, has announced they will conduct an investigation and revamp their approach to working with models, since the Sunday Times investigation has taken place. Unfortunately, this agency is unlikely to be the only one involved. Greater transparency, safeguarding and accountability are essential if these modelling industry issues are to be properly addressed.

What do you think needs to change to protect vulnerable models from exploitation and debt? Share your thoughts in the comments below.

[Info sourced on dailymail.co.uk and theurbanwatch.com

All images sourced on canva.com]