The Real Cost of Fashion Shows: Money, Carbon, and Beyond

Last month, we at Scarlet Destiny analysed the expenses associated with hosting a show in Paris, Milan, London, Berlin, or Copenhagen. We looked at the financial aspects of running a fashion show and how, although runway shows represent a pivotal opportunity for emerging designer brands, financing presents a significant hurdle. You can read “The Real Cost Of A Fashion Show” here.

But the truth is, while researching the costs associated with running a catwalk, we uncovered a plethora of insights about the REAL cost—not just financially, but environmentally. Yes, we’re talking about the hidden impact these events have on our planet.

When Fashion Week Arrives

Twice a year, the entire fashion industry shuttles between New York, London, Milan, Paris, Berlin, and Copenhagen, completing its seasonal fashion circuit. Hundreds of buyers, celebrities, and influencers arrive on carbon-intensive flights for fleeting glimpses of new collections, designed for rapid obsolescence. Within months, another season begins, and the cycle repeats.

While brands and fashion councils have made some efforts to reduce emissions and waste, these events still have significant environmental impacts. The root cause lies deeper: the overproduction and overconsumption that fashion weeks inherently promote.

The "Brainprint" of Fashion Weeks

Each runway event sparks a marketing machine aimed at driving the purchase of new products. The trends these events set in motion, the media exposure they generate, and the shopping they encourage leave a ripple effect on consumption. This phenomenon is referred to as the "brainprint" of fashion shows.

Luxury brands, in particular, bear significant responsibility. The millions they invest in shows not only boost sales of runway collections but also encourage mass consumption of related products, such as handbags, fragrances, and even mass-market replicas. Their branding inadvertently fuels the rise of fast fashion, compounding the environmental damage.

The Numbers Behind the Glitter

Research by ORDRE.com, in collaboration with The Carbon Trust, sheds light on the scale of the issue. The data, based on travel patterns during the 2018 Spring/Summer season, highlights: 241,000 tonnes of CO₂ equivalent (tCO₂e) are emitted annually from travel alone.

This is equivalent to: 

• Powering 51,000 cars for a year.
• Lighting Times Square for 58 years.
• Burning 27 million gallons of gasoline annually.

The breakdown includes:

• 147,000 tCO₂e from air travel.
• 78,000 tCO₂e from accommodation.
• 11,000 tCO₂e from intercity travel.
• 5,000 tCO₂e from transporting collections.

Carbon Emissions: A Growing Concern

It’s important to note that the 2018 figures provided by the ORDRE report may no longer reflect the current reality. With the resurgence of in-person events after the pandemic, the industry’s carbon footprint may have worsened, particularly as global fashion hubs like Shanghai, Seoul, and Dubai host more events. The increase in destination shows, such as Cruise and Capsule collections, only adds to the emissions.

To address these growing challenges, the industry must accelerate its commitment to digital transformation and sustainable practices, such as embracing regionalised events and virtual showrooms.

Emissions Per Fashion Week City

The emissions also vary by city:

• New York: 37%
• Paris: 28%
• London: 18%
• Milan: 17%

Copenhagen and Berlin: Leaders in Sustainability

While many fashion capitals cling to tradition, Copenhagen Fashion Week (CFW) and Berlin Fashion Week lead the way in embracing sustainability:

• Copenhagen Fashion Week: Designers must meet 18 specific sustainability criteria to participate. These include avoiding unsold stock destruction, using at least 50% sustainable materials, and educating consumers about their efforts.
• Berlin Fashion Week: With platforms like the Neonyt Trade Fair, Berlin showcases innovative and eco-conscious solutions, promoting local craftsmanship and sustainable practices.

A Call for Radical Change

The fashion industry must take bold steps to reform. Recommendations from the Zero to Market report include:

• Combining men’s and women’s weeks into unified events.
• Merging seasonal collections, such as Pre-Fall with Fall/Winter, to reduce travel.
• Hosting regional fashion weeks, akin to the Olympic model.
• Embracing digital showrooms and technologies to reduce physical attendance.
• Prioritising low-carbon travel options, such as trains, and encouraging eco-friendly accommodations.

As ORDRE founder Simon P. Lock aptly states, “The big question is: should we still be travelling to fashion weeks to conduct the business of fashion? Or is there a better way?”

What’s Next for Scarlet Destiny?

At Scarlet Destiny, we believe in leading by example. By combining digital innovation with sustainability, the fashion industry can pave the way for a future that celebrates creativity without compromising our planet. Let’s take inspiration from Copenhagen and Berlin to make fashion more responsible, inclusive, and enduring.

After all, fashion is more than just style—it’s a reflection of our values. Let’s ensure those values champion both people and the planet.

[All imagery sourced on canva.com - Info sourced on businessoffashion.com]