The Impact of Denim

  • by Vivienne Austin

Denim, a global fashion staple nestled in closets worldwide, hides a dirty secret. While its history boasts a journey from workwear to ubiquitous icon (read our article "The History Of Blue Jeans" to learn more!), the environmental cost rarely gets a second look.

The truth is, denim's production leaves a hefty footprint. The industry is notorious for excessive water usage, energy consumption, and chemical pollution, making it a leading offender in fashion's environmental woes. From the cotton's thirst for water to the cocktail of chemicals used in dyeing and finishing, every stage of denim's life cycle exacts a toll on our planet and, ultimately, ourselves.


About Denim Production

Denim, much like many of our daily attire, is primarily crafted from cotton. What sets denim apart from other cotton-based fabrics though, is the distinct weaving technique utilised for the fabric production. This method involves crossing two different threads in a twill pattern to create the iconic diagonal lines, resulting in denim's renowned durability and thickness. Plus, this type of cotton is frequently blended with elastane or Lycra, synthetic fibre that provide elasticity and comfort we look for when buying a new denim piece. Of course, a typical pair of jeans or denim jacket also includes additional materials like threads, buttons, rivets, and leather sections. 


The journey from cotton field to finished jeans is a global odyssey. Far beyond yarn, weaving, and sewing, denim production demands a multitude of resources and specialised techniques. This complexity scatters the process across the globe, making it highly challenging for a single company to control every step – from cotton cultivation to marketing the final product.

Denim's journey isn't a single-country story. It's a global tapestry woven from the specialised skills of various nations. Cotton, the foundation, thrives in the Indian subcontinent and Africa. Europe, North America, and Japan boast expertise in spinning and weaving the fabric. North Africa and China bring their skill to garment assembly. Meanwhile, India, Southeast Asia, and the Middle East add their flair through dyeing and embellishments. 

 

 

The Environmental Impact

The environmental footprint of denim goes far beyond the clothes themselves. Shipping this material across the globe during production strains the planet's resources – just one piece in the puzzle of denim's negative consequences.

 

Just imagine that  a single pair of Levi Strauss 501® jeans requires over 3,780 litres of water, encompassing cotton growth and fabric processing. Cotton irrigation accounts for 92% of one pair of jeans water footprint, while the rest is linked to denim fabric production. A single pair of jeans also carries a significant carbon footprint throughout its lifecycle, with about 33.4 kg of CO2 emitted per pair, according to Levi’s. These emissions from producing jeans are equivalent to flying a plane globally 2,372 times or a petrol car travelling over 21 billion miles, according to an Oxfam report.

 

Denim's dark side extends beyond resource depletion. The spinning, weaving, and finishing processes are energy-intensive, relying heavily on fossil fuels. This, as we know, translates to harmful greenhouse gas emissions and air pollution.

The environmental damage doesn't stop there. Denim production utilises a cocktail of harmful chemicals, including pesticides, fertilisers, dyes, and finishing agents. These toxins contaminate our soil and water sources, posing a serious threat to their health.



From the millions of litres of water, to the fabric wasted during the production process, there is already a lot of waste involved in this industry’s supply chain. But of course, when we talk about waste, we also talk about the disposal of this material at the end of the lifecycle. With all the chemicals being inputted on the natural cotton fabric, denim doesn’t decompose easily, adding to the fashion landfills’ issue we are all well aware of.

 

The Human Impact

 

Denim's dark side extends beyond the environment. Farmers on the frontlines are exposed to toxic dyes used in production, but the harm ripples outwards. Millions of workers across the globe toil under questionable conditions, with the responsibility for their safety resting squarely on the industry's shoulders.

A tale of two worlds emerges when we examine regulations. Europe, North America, and Japan – homes to high-quality denim coveted by luxury brands – enforce stringent standards. However, in Asia, South America, and North Africa, a different story unfolds. Here, the focus is on low-cost production for the fast-fashion industry, often employing hazardous methods.

 

Sandblasting, a technique used to create the popular "distressed" look, exemplifies the human cost. While natural fading occurs over time, this method accelerates the process for a trendy look. Unfortunately, it involves blasting fabrics with abrasive materials, releasing silica dust into the air. Workers inhale these particles, leading to a devastating array of health problems – lung damage, respiratory issues, silicosis, and even cancer. Thankfully, sandblasting has been banned in most Western countries, with Turkey, once a major player, outlawing it in 2009. However, the demand for distressed denim persists, fuelling a dangerous trend. 

 

The environmental and human costs of denim can't be ignored. The sheer volume of denim already existing raises a crucial question: do we need to keep producing more? The answer might surprise you.

Instead of perpetuating the problem, let's explore solutions. Look beyond the storefront and embrace the world of vintage and second-hand denim. It's a treasure trove of unique styles, all while giving pre-loved garments a new lease on life. Alternatively, support brands committed to sustainability such as Fanfare, Rag & Bone, Re/Done,  . Seek out those pioneering recycling programs that transform waste into something beautiful – a true testament to innovation.

 

On the contrary, we can try and alleviate this huge strain on the environment by purchasing vintage and second-hand denim, or by buying from brands using recycling programmes such as Fanfare, Rag & Bone, Re/Done, The Blackhorse Lane Atelier, Huit Denim and then upcycled like E.L.V Denim.

 

[info sourced on premiervision.com and makefashionbetter.com

All images sourced on canva.com]

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