Plastic Free July: Fashion Edition
July typically heralds the start of summer, a season often associated with sunshine and outdoor adventures. However, in the UK, we've come to expect the unexpected – a mix of rain showers and fleeting sunbeams. This year, as we navigate the British weather, July also marks the important annual campaign, Plastic Free July. This global initiative encourages us to reduce our plastic consumption and create a cleaner, healthier planet.
You’ve probably heard of Plastic-Free July. It’s a global challenge encouraging people to reduce plastic waste for the entire month. The idea is simple: ditch single-use plastics like bags, straws, and bottles for 31 days and see how easy it is to make lasting changes. From swapping plastic bags for reusable ones to choosing glass over plastic bottles, there are countless ways to reduce your plastic footprint. Need some inspiration? Check out the Plastic-Free July website for tips and ideas, linked here.
This year, we're turning our attention to the fashion industry – a favourite topic of ours 😉 - and while we love the world of fashion, we can't ignore the plastic problem plaguing the industry. But there's good news! Innovative solutions are emerging that offer a much-needed escape from the plastic-heavy textiles and fashion items we've all become accustomed to. As consumers increasingly seek eco-friendly alternatives, exciting new materials are stepping in to replace polyester, nylon, acrylic, and elastane. And it's not just fashion benefiting from these next-gen fibres – the automotive and home goods industries are also embracing them.
Treekind
TREEKIND is one of the sustainable solutions that is completely plastic-free and offers recyclability, home compostability, non-toxicity, PETA vegan certification, and utilises less than 0.1% of the water used in leather production. Developed by Biophilica, this innovative material, TREEKIND, serves as a biodegradable leather substitute without PU or rubber components, setting it apart from other alternatives in the market.
TREEKIND is crafted from lignocellulosic feedstocks sourced from urban parks, gardens, and inedible agricultural sources. Notably, it has successfully passed the home composting test ISO 14855-1 and undergone various ISO tests for leather goods with outstanding outcomes.
Achieving PETA approval, TREEKIND is on its way to obtaining USDA certification as a 100% bio-based material, and as far we know, one of the next-gen materials, already in use by a few selected brands such as Been London, Hype and ID Genève.
Agrilose
Fabrics like viscose/rayon, lyocell, and modal are derived from tree pulp. The Hurd Company opts for agriwaste instead of trees, which is material that typically gets discarded or burnt after harvesting food crops, and instead they’re creating Agrilose, emphasising the importance of trees for the environment.
Agrilose is a pioneering man-made cellulosic feedstock pulp generated solely from this agricultural waste. This sustainable product is crafted from waste material, promoting a zero-waste approach, and unlike traditional pulping methods such as kraft pulping, which are too harsh for agricultural remnants, The Hurd Co's patented process efficiently handles various agricultural wastes. Their innovative process uses 50% less water and 90% less energy compared to conventional fibre pulp production methods. We’re still waiting to see any brands jump on this new-gen material, but can’t wait to get our hands on it already!
Seawool® Yarn
This new-gen textile is what can be considered a real breakthrough in sustainable textiles that is revolutionising the industry by transforming discarded oyster shells and recycled plastic waste into high-performance, eco-friendly fabrics.
This environmentally friendly yarn, made from oyster shells and post-consumer petrochemical materials, establishes a new benchmark for eco-conscious fashion. By repurposing 100 tons of discarded oyster shells and 300 tons of plastic waste only in 2023, it significantly reduces environmental impact and promotes sustainability.
The unique composition of Seawool not only minimises waste but also enhances the yarn with exceptional properties derived from oyster shells, such as odour control, moisture management and thermal regulation. These material properties make Seawool Yarn perfect for fall and winter attire, including sweaters, beanies, scarves, and woven flannels. Its moisture management and stretch features also make it suitable for activewear, providing both comfort and performance.
Of course, just like any other consumer waste based new textile, the issue comes when we start talking about how we will then recycle or get rid of this plastic based textile at the end of its lifecycle. If Seawool Yarn could be made entirely from oyster shells, which are naturally compostable, this could really become the future of all eco-friendly textiles.
Seaweed Leather
Some fashion pioneers have recently started harvesting seaweed to produce animal-free and plastic-free leather. Although the Aboriginal people were the first culture to use seaweed similarly to leather long before our era, this is finally starting to be recognised as a real material now.
Sea leather serves as an alternative to animal leather, being cruelty-free, vegan, non-toxic, and fully biodegradable. This material primarily consists of alginate, a polysaccharide derived from brown algae such as kelp. Selected for its carbon-absorbing properties and high alginate content, this seaweed species, found worldwide, forms kelp forests, recognised as vital carbon sinks in the ocean. Kelps' alginate hardens in the presence of a metal cation, creating a structured polymer arrangement that, once completely dried, could substitute for leather.
In addition to being environmentally safe, sea leather is naturally flame-retardant and water-resistant. Of course, this type of material is only at the beginning stage of research, but exploring marine materials' potential as a renewable source for innovative textiles has led to significant findings, including not only leather alternatives but also natural, eco-friendly substitutes for polyurethane foam, known as "sea foam" and "sea wool."
We can’t wait to see if sea leather will soon be available to brands worldwide. We surely would think about working with this material…
Vegea
VEGEA® is an innovative material characterised by the high content of vegetal, renewable and recycled raw materials: grape leftovers from winemaking, vegetal oils and natural fibres from agriculture. VEGEA® is the combination of Vegan-VEG and GEA-Mother Earth, identifying the next generation of alternatives to fully petroleum-based and animal-derived materials.
Pioneered by Milan-based company Vegea in 2016, this innovative material has quickly gained traction. With the support of numerous wine industry partners, it’s already being used by a growing number of fashion brands. From H&M to Le Coq Sportif, Moleskine, Vyom London, Mr Porter, Maison Peaux Neuves, and many more. It was only earlier this year that this material truly captured the spotlight when Stella McCartney and Veuve Clicquot joined forces to introduce it as a luxury vegan leather alternative. Their groundbreaking collaboration marked a significant step forward for grape-based materials in high-end luxury fashion.
While environmental concerns and profit potential drive the adoption of next-gen materials, the reality is that these innovative textiles often come with higher costs and production challenges. As a result, many brands are still drawn to more affordable plastic-based options like recycled polyester, which can mislead consumers into thinking they're making a sustainable choice.
Fortunately, a shift towards sustainability is underway. Planet-friendly alternatives are gaining traction, with a growing number of plastic-free materials emerging worldwide. Brands can prioritise environmental and ethical standards by opting for independently certified materials from reputable sources. As consumers become increasingly eco-conscious, it's crucial for brands to prioritise these next-gen materials over traditional, plastic-based options. This isn't just about profit; it's about making responsible choices for the future of our planet. We need to break free from the cycle of overproduction and overconsumption and focus on sustainable solutions.
[info sourced on biophilica.co.uk, thehurdco.com, premiervision.com, collectivefashionjustice.org and vegeacompany.com
All images sourced on canva.com]