Next-Gen Materials: Why Are They So Hard To Scale?
If you've been following our blog for a while, you're well aware of our passion for fashion here at Scarlet Destiny. We dedicate a significant portion of our time researching and reading about fashion sustainability, the latest industry news, and emerging fashion technologies.
In the last few months, we’ve talked a lot about new-gen materials and how, as consumer demand for environmentally friendly materials increases, these keep emerging as viable alternatives to synthetics and animal-based products. From plastic-free textiles to New-Gen Materials and New-Gen Technologies, a lot of sustainable alternatives to traditional fashion production have popped up in the past few years.
The reality is that no matter how promising or easy to implement these alternatives may seem, they don't appear to scale effectively when considering the broader scope of the fashion industry. So, if these new technologies are viable and already available, why hasn't anyone taken the first step to drive their commercialisation?
The industry is keeping a close watch. Just before the Future Fabrics Expo in London, a new report backed by Kering and The Laudes Foundation highlighted the challenges to growth. These include a lack of investor understanding of the fashion sector, an oversaturation of startups with little differentiation, and a lack of long-term commitments from brands and feedstock suppliers.
Bananatex, which creates fabric from banana fibres, has previously partnered with renowned brands like Stella McCartney, Balenciaga, and H&M. However, none of these companies have made a full investment in this innovative material. The extraction of banana fibres is an established industry in the Philippines, meaning that the infrastructure for large-scale manufacturing was already in place. The only hurdle has been the pricing. Extracting banana fibres involves a significant amount of manual labour, and there's no way to automate or bypass this process. A single worker can produce 1kg in an hour or 10kg in ten hours, making economies of scale ineffective. This poses a challenge for brands, as Bananatex is priced at twice the cost of organic cotton and over four times that of polyester. While luxury brands may find it somewhat easier to absorb the cost due to their higher profit margins, the core issue remains that brands often do not account for the true cost of unsustainable materials.
OnceMore, an offshoot of Sweden’s largest forest owners association Södra is another material that just can’t scale. The material uses chemical recycling to combine poly-cotton textile waste with wood from Södra’s forests to create an alternative to viscose.
For these guys, it’s been quite hard to get any brand to sign a long-term partnership. As the raw material looks like cardboard more than a textile, the design teams tend to not go for it and want to see finished results from past projects. But because no one will sign from the start because of the look of the material, these are are to come by. And so are long terms partnerships.
Beleaf is a plant-based leather alternative derived from the Alocasia Macrorrhiza, commonly known as the ‘elephant ear’ plant. This innovative material is produced by Brazilian company Nova Kaeru and has been utilised by brands such as Loewe, Botter, and Christopher Esber.
The brands frequently propose ways to enhance the product though, including different backings for increased flexibility or modifications to the formula for added versatility. As a result, Beleaf now offers a variety of materials that resemble traditional bovine leather, alongside their signature line that maintains the natural shape and texture of the leaves.
However, since the bovine-like leather appears to be the only option that can scale effectively, the company risks straying from its original mission of creating a product that celebrates the natural form and style of leaves. Unfortunately, this shift is driven by industry demands, prompting the company to redirect its creativity to remain viable.
We've analysed several alternative textiles to pinpoint where the real issues lie. Treekind faces similar challenges as Beleaf, Sequinova struggles with high prices due to low demand, and Mycelium is finding it difficult to refine its material to meet brand standards. These companies have numerous obstacles to overcome.
The reality is that for Next-Gen materials and technologies to truly succeed and scale, the current rules need to change, so those working responsibly aren't penalised. By shifting the financial degradation onto businesses contributing to environmental harm, we can create a more balanced system that rewards sustainable practices. Imagine if unsustainable materials were taxed and alternatives were incentivised—companies and brands would be more inclined to invest in these start-ups as they become more cost-effective, driving the much-needed transformation in the fashion industry.
[info sourced on voguebusiness.com; featured image sourced on canva.com]